I'll Gladly Pay You A Pula Today...For A Rand Tomorrow

For those of you who may wonder where in the world one might find Botswana....I've provided this handy map with complementary flag (in case you wondered about that too). Carrie and I traveled to Southern Africa a few years ago...although it seems like it was just yesterday...for a University outreach project. In Botswana we worked with students from the University of Botswana, Gabarone to teach women and children entrepreneurial skills and basic business practices. Essentially our goal was to teach them to support themselves, as a large portion of their adult male population has died or cannot work due to HIV/AIDS.

We expected to find people lacking in education, business skills and understanding of entrepreneurial concepts. What we found were individuals steeped in entrepreneurial thought, having found ways to make a pula in the past just to keep surviving and feeding their families. I was thrilled to experience the excitement and pride that our students had in their ideas and plans for the future. It was truly an amazing opportunity for Carrie and I to understand that there are universal truths about mankind....we will overcome anything if we have to and with work and dedication there is no limit to creativity and opportunity.

This being a travel blog however brings me back to the second reason for traveling to Southern Africa....to travel and to drive on the other side of the road (which was challenging....but fun). Carrie and I went on Safari in South Africa (which in hindsight we should have done in the Chobe of Botswana) but didn't see a lion....so we cheated and visited the St. Claire Lion Park to see several up close. Honestly....it was frightening. Our little VW bus that I was driving was surrounded by young lions. We drove onward heading to the top of a hill to overlook the valley and found, as if posed by Disney, a HUGE lion with his mane blowing in the wind like Mufasa. He didn't appreciate our close proximity to him...but didn't crush us like he could have.

Aside from the lions...the food was great too. There is a spice there which I cannot find in stores in the US called Peri-Peri...although I've never looked too hard. The Nando's Peri-Peri Chicken will give you something to remember....which is where I made the mistake of asking for the Hot stuff. We also saw "fatcakes" for sale...but chose to avoid them. Maybe next time. We drank some Lion and Castle beer which is locally brewed, we did eat Oxtail, (which is very good...especially with Peri-Peri) and we regularly had Rooibos Tea between meals (a holdover tradition from British occupation). I was also able to eat with a small family and enjoyed the meal of various cooked beans, vegetables and stewed beef (at least I think that's what it was)....but the traditional Botswana Achar I could have done without. Also beware of Madila, or sour milk, which is consumed alone or with porridge. Not my kind of thing I guess.

I could go on and on about travel through Botswana, the sights (like cattle crossing the highways regularly), the sounds (like the local market bustling with trade of spices, bootleg CDs and Cassettes and clothing) and smells (good food, bad sewage...take your pick)...but I'll stop here and encourage anyone to take this trip for themselves. The people, the environment and the experience make the journey well worth the hours of being stuck in tourist class on an airplane. Just be sure to avoid babies, larger than usual travellers and those who have chosen to boycott deodorant. You're going to find many of those deodorant boycotters during your African travels.

Philly Has More To Offer Than Cream Cheese

Dimitri & Greg in Philly
Originally uploaded by gyatman.

Philadephia, the "City of Brotherly Love", derives it's name from the Greek translation for...you guessed it...brotherly love. No sick jokes please...there are Greeks reading this.

There is however much more than brotherly love going on in Philly these days...in fact some fairly notable things have been going on there since the 1700s (if you're behind on US History). Unfortunately due to terrorist scares and post-9/11 security issues, the symbols of liberty, justice and freedom are heavily guarded and besieged by tourists lining up for hours just to see the relics of history which link us to our United States heritage. Not one to back down at the sight of sunburned tourists, restless children and souvenier vendors, I pressed forward to visit a few crucial sites in Philly. By the way...be sure to ride the PHLASH to get around (it's only $1 a ride). Here's my "must see" list for a visit:

The Liberty Bell - Often heard is "it's much smaller in real life than I thought it would be." Reminder however is that it's not the size of the bell...well you get it.

Independence Hall - Get here early to pick up a "free" ticket for admission...seriously...these go fast in the summer and once they're gone you're stuck outside imagining how it might have been.

The National Constitution Center - Honestly I didn't go inside but walked around it...not because I didn't want to go inside, but because we all couldn't agree on where to go next and it was really, really hot. It's really big, bright and impressive (all good signs of a sight worthwhile)

Christ Church Burial Ground - Ben Franklin lies here...and rumor has it that if you toss a penny on his grave it's good luck. Obviously a very cheap groundskeeper started this one.

Philadelphia Museum of Art - Beautiful museum, designed to give a seamless tour through art genres and nationalities. Incredible works and atmosphere that still have me awestruck.

Mutter Museum - As gross as the Philadelphia Museum of Art is beautiful. Disease, mutation, disection and fetuses line the walls of this shocking monument to human illness and death. Eat before you visit....your appetite will definitely thank you later.

Duck Tour - I know that in Boston I hated the Duck Tour...quacking at us in our crappy tour trolley...but the Duck is redeemed in Philly. It's fun, informative, aquatic and most importantly you get a free duck quacker (you'll have to see it to understand).

We also dined at two restaurants in Philly that need to be addressed (please be aware that Philly has one very happening food scene which requires future culinary visits)...one good and one just so-so (in my humble opinion). These two are:

Jim's Steaks - Call me a rookie or simply an uninformed steak eater...but my cheesesteak from Jim's was dull, very little cheese (Cheez Wiz of course) and not worth the waiting in line. Sorry Jim...I'd rather eat a real NY hot pastrami sandwich from Katz Deli (of "When Harry Met Sally" simulated orgasm fame")

Positano Coast - This restaurant was perfect after a day of touring. Modern Italian cuisine, based on the idea of sharing plates and experiencing a wide variety of foods. Be sure to try the Tiramisu (one of the best I've ever had...even in Italy and I'm not even a fan of it!)

I've left out some small things...and fogotten to tell some funny stories..but I think a visit to Philly is truly worth the time and effort. The city history is rich, the city cuisine is impressive (they've even got Chef Morimoto from Iron Chef here!) and the sights are phenomenal. There is definitely more to Philly that Cream Cheese, Cheesesteaks and Tastykake.

California Dreamin'

Some of you, in fact most likely a majority of you will be unfamiliar with this scene....but to me it's home...actually it was home for most of my life. This photo depicts the "Smallest Mountain Range in the World" or so the residents of Yuba City like to tell everyone.

Notice the agricultural look of the scenery and it isn't hard to imagine that despite the reputation of California for being full of surfboards, beaches and bikinis (although I have surfed and did own a surfboard at one time)...I spent most of my time dodging puddles of tobacco spit, wondering how anyone could wear Wrangler jeans with giant cowboy buckles and seriously contemplating whether the ever present Country Music was a deperate attempt by the South to finally gain retribution for their Civil War defeat. I'm still hanging on to my Southern conspiracy theory....even after Shania Twain (so beautifully) cast doubt upon it.

I have to give this tiny place credit however for giving me to urge to travel as far away from it as possible, as much as possible, to get a clearer picture of what the rest of the world looked like. It's not as if Yuba City is a terrible place, in fact my parents and Carrie's parents still live there, it's just that opportunity and diversity doesn't exactly grow on trees there as do peaches, plums, almonds and walnuts. Yuba City does have the International Tomato Festival...which is most likely International because it features Salsa and Spaghetti Sauce....but at least it's a festival!

California is still my home state...in my mind...which is why I haven't even exchanged my license for a NY one yet (I just can't let go yet, so don't tell the DMV)...and I thought I'd share some great places that should be visited if possible (leaving out Disneyland..which is a given regardless of age), especially with the newest Jetblue fares to California:

San Francisco - From North Beach to Chinatown, The Castro to Alcatraz...this city has the commerce, style and feel of a big city without the overwhelming atmosphere...I would recommend S.F. as "The Best" city in California in terms of food, sights and friendly people...quite a few freaks too (which is good for picture taking)

Napa Valley - Although Sideways highlighted Napa's southern California cousin the Santa Ynez valley, the real deal is found in Napa Valley near San Francisco. Be sure to visit Steltzner Vineyards on the Silverado Trail and ask for either Dick (the owner) or Allison (his daughter) to give you a real wine lesson and great tasting

San Diego - Perfect weather, 15 minutes from Mexico and fantastic beaches. The Mexican food here is incredible (and it should be), Mission Beach, Ocean Beach, Torrey Pines and Pacific Beach are great to visit....but be sure to see La Jolla as well to view Beverly Hills of San Diego

Santa Barbara - Yes...Sideways was highlighting the wine country here...but the scenic views make this city unforgettable. Great college scene too...Isla Vista is something to be seen and most likely not remembered the next day

I realize that I've been pretty broad with my suggestions for California, but I can't help it....there are dozens of places within each of my suggested destinations that I would recommend. Maybe I'll break them down further on another post. Until then however enjoy your travels and be sure to share your stories too!

Mental Vacation to Greece

Carrie in Santorini
Originally uploaded by gyatman.

Those of you fortunate enough to have Greek friends (I say this out of respect for our Greek friends...and because they read this as well) will most likely understand that in the summer months...our Hellenic friends migrate back to Greece, the village (horio) and Islands. Carrie and I have many Greek friends (like Len in the past postings), and consequently are now quite alone in Astoria...despite being surrounded with older Greek-American Astoria residents. The old folks...they're just not the same, don't like to visit the Beer Garden, like to be in bed by 9:00pm, wake up too early and most importantly can't move very fast. Sorry Yia Yia and Papou...we just can't hang out anymore.
The point to this post however is this...I'm mentally visiting Greece each day when typing away at my computer, watching the clock tick steadily toward the weekend and wondering "what if I just left right now....just got up and walked right the F out?" Never doing it of course...because I lack the courage, job leads and the healthy bank account to do so.
Basically put however we miss the horiatiki, souvlaki, frappes , light background music (in Greek of course) and most importantly the company of friends...conversations influenced by coffee, cigarettes and typical Greek emotion. So, in an attempt to place the final touches on my Greek Mental Vacation I'll mention some Greek spots in Astoria...if you're in the neighborhood...to help out.

Stamatis
Telly's
Lefkos Pyrgos
Taverna Kyclades
Titan Foods

It must be noted however that I do have a beautiful Greek girlfriend (posing perfectly in the pic) to ease me through our time of Greek separation anxiety (Again I say this out of respect for my Greek girlfriend...and because she may read this as well). So in the end, although our friends are away for the summer, hopefully they'll be back soon...with stories to tell and time to spare. Until then.....Kala Taxidia (Good Travels)!

The Windy City Blew Me Away

Sears Tower at Night
Originally uploaded by gyatman.

A few weeks ago I was visiting Chicago on business (ALA Conference) and found some free time to check out the Windy City sights. I have to admit that given my limited amount of touring time I missed out on several key Chicago attractions...such as The Field Museum, The Art Institute of Chicago, The Shedd Aquarium (I'm still irritated that I missed this one) and The Adler Planetarium...but I still saw a nice slice of Chicago life.

I started my Chicago tour by buying tickets for the Chicago River Architecture Tour...a must for the Chicago visitor unfamiliar with Chicago history. I followed this tour with a walk through the Navy Pier, which also provided plenty of Chicago flavor (although a bit more touristy). Not to let a river tour and pier walk slow me down...I headed to the John Hancock Building (the best skydeck view in Chicago I have to admit). The Chicago skyline was quite impressive...even for a NYC resident like me (it must be noted that I am a California transplant however...if anyone ever wondered).

When discussing Chicago the food must also be discussed. Chicago has an incredible food scene. From hot dogs to cheesecake, sweetbreads to foie gras, Chicago has the selection. I was able to dine at three great restaurants that I should definitely share:

MK - Hidden away from tourist crowds and the everyday hustle and bustle...the atmosphere is perfect and the wine list is fantastic too (check out the Steltzner Cab)

Gibson's - Steaks made for a king (or queen) and service to match. Kate Hudson and Chris Robinson sat at the table next to us...but being starstruck didn't stop me from consuming large quantities of steak and wine (check out the Chicago Cut steak....perfect for "real" red meat affectionados)

The Parthenon - Perfect for tourists, great for residents...but most importantly everyone feels like family. Large family style tables encourage shared drinks, food and occational shouts of "OPA!!!"

Chicago is a perfect place to visit in the Spring and Fall (Summer and Winter can be brutal) but don't let the weather keep you from enjoying the Chicago scene. The people have the kind mid-western charm to them, the funny "Dahhh Bearsss" accent (sorry Chicagoans), and a great sense of local pride. Simply put...The Windy City Blew Me Away.

Sympathy and Respect to London

I've had the pleasure of being beaten up by the Pound vs. Dollar conversion twice in my life. I say pleasure because I never really minded much while taking in the whole British experience driving through Oxford, London and the Buckinghamshire (particularly Haddenham) countryside. Our friends, Julian and his son Mark Stow, have always provided a comfortable home, great food (yes...it was good Mr. Chirac) and unmatched hospitality...a few pints at The Rose and Thistle never hurts either. We've toured London together, we've toured Oxford together...and we almost got them to take us to a Pikey Camp (think Brad Pitt's residence in Snatch). The point I'm trying to make is this...I loved the UK and really enjoyed my time in London...which is one of the reasons why it is very disturbing to turn on the BBC news (via NYC cable of course) to see the terrorist attacks on the London Underground this morning. Without making a political statment...I'll simply send my sympathy and respect to the UK for responding to the situation quickly and maintaining order. Unfortunately NYC has become accustomed to this type of threat, yet the thought of another attack on this city sends chills down my spine. I sincerely wish the people of the UK the best of luck and a speedy recovery in healing the wounds an attack of this sort creates within society.

Len & Me....Without Norm at Cheers

Len & Me....Without Norm
Originally uploaded by gyatman.

Alright this location is a bit touristy (is that a word?)...but it is Fourth of July weekend vacation and I spent a significant part of my childhood watching Sam, Carla, Coach, Woody, Norm and Cliff on TV...so it all evens out in the end. Needless justification aside, this bar is one of the largest tourist traps in Boston (sorry Cheers proprietors)...so just take your picture here and move on. The Boston Public Garden is directly across the street and much better suited for a real touring experience...check out the Swan Boats and the World's Smallest Suspension Bridge.

Be sure to visit MIT (particularly the new building paid for by Bill Gates) and Harvard if you're in the Cambridge area...especially "The Pit" in Harvard Square to get the college feel back again...of course most likely your college experience wasn't quite as expensive...but hey...college rebellion has no price or social class restrictions. I really enjoyed the area and even drank a pint or two of Stella at Daedalus around the corner from the Harvard train station.

I would also like to recommend the Old Town Trolley Tours of Boston due to the fact that aside from the Duck Tours (which just the sight of them made me angry for some reason) you will not find more coverage of Boston. Beware of Gray Line due to lack of marked stops and many trolleys...you may walk aimlessly through Boston looking for a stop...running franticly at the sight of any red trolley...as of course we did. Long story short...enjoy Boston. It rocks.

Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market

Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market
Originally uploaded by gyatman.

Filled to capacity with shoppers, tourists, families and entertainers....this seems to be the heart of Boston. Within walking distance to most of Boston's great sights and definitely worth a visit. We followed our visit to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market with a brief wait in line for the 26th Annual Clam Chowder Festival...which we soon left due to boredom...and ate great food at the Union Oyster House (America's Oldest Restaurant) where we enjoyed fantastic cornbread, clam chowder and crab cakes. As Carrie and Len (the two Greeks) enjoyed the sun....my Scandinavian skin felt the wrath of helios...leaving me with a burning, tingling souvenir to take to work with me on Tuesday. My co-workers must have loved the raccoon eyes and peeling forehead. Damn you genetics...why must I burn before tanning? Anyways...the trip was great and we also squeezed in an Aquarium visit as I mentioned we would in a past blog. Mission Accomplished.